2. Measure the distance from your waist downward to your largest hip area. Make notation of the measurement i.e., 9inches.
3. Measure the distance from your waist down to just below you knee, or the desire length, (hemline) of your skirt. Make notation on this measurement, i.e., 29 inches.
2. Draw a rectangle with its longest side against the edge of the paper. The rectangle should be as long as measurement C of Part 1, this was the distance from your waist down to just below you knee, or the desire length, (hemline) of your skirt.
3. Next the rectangle should be as wide as your hip measurement divided by 4 plus 1inch for seam allowance. This was the hip measurement noted, A of Part 1(second measurement, hips) i.e., 44 inches. Formula 44 divided by 4, which would be 11+1=12 inches.
4. To shape your pattern, first redraft the top width of the skirt so that it is as wide as your waist measure divided by 4 plus 1in for seam allowance. This was the waist measurement noted, A of Part 1(first measurement, waist) i.e., 34 inches. Formula 34 divided by 4, which would be 8.5+1=9.5 inches.
5. From the waist you redrafted, use the measure from B of Part 1, this was the distance from your waist down to your widest hip area, and add 2in to the length, i.e., 9+2=11 inches. Mark this point on the long side of your rectangle.
6. Connect the new redrafted marking made at the waist to the new redrafted hip length; gently curve the line running from the waist mark to the hip mark. This will help give your skirt “curves” woot, woot!
7. To achieve the classic pencil skirt shape, the bottom of your skirt should curve in from the knees towards the bottom hemline. At bottom outer edge of the rectangle measure 2 inches inward. Starting from this point gently curve inwards up towards the new redrafted hip marking you created.
8. Finally add 1 inch to top and bottom of pattern for waist and hem line allowances. All done, now cut out your new pencil skirt pattern.
1. Before starting, ensure you are using your fabric correctly. A good way to determine this is to give your fabric a good tug from side to side and from top to bottom. Ensure you are utilizing the bias, the direction with the most stretch from side to side. This is the direction you want running across your hips and waist (as opposed to stretching downward from waist to hem). The best fabrics to use are 2-way, even better 4-way stretch knits, i.e., spandex, lycra, poly-knit blends. I will be utilizing a 2-way stretch fabric for the purpose of this tutorial.
3. Lay the two halves of the skirt together, right sides together. Match edges as best as possible, ten pin the sides together. Use fabric chalk to mark the top of the fabric, to decrease chances of confusing the top and bottom of the skirt throughout the sewing process.
5. This is a good time to try on your skirt to check the fit. Fabrics have different amounts of stretch to them; therefore you may need to take the sides in a bit more if the fabric is very stretchy. Once happy with the fit, more on to the final step.
6. Now it’s time to create your waistline and hemline, for the experienced you may prefer to use your serger for the final step, which you don’t need my help for, your professionals, smiles! Fold down the waistline ½ an inch, then fold over that again (no raw edges should be showing), it should be doubled. Pin in place with straight pins, then sew down the hemline along the inner folded edge (the edge opposite to the top edge) with a zig zag stitch, you can use your double needle to give it more professional look. Please use your machines instructions for details how to install and thread the double needle. If you are “NEW” to this, I suggest utilizing the zig zag stitch. Repeat step F to create the hemline.