Pencil Skirt Tutorial


pencil-skirt-tutorial

Hello My Pretti’s. This is a “Quick and Easy” Pencil Skirt Tutorial. Pencil skirts are a favorite of mine, you can dress them up or dress them down. They pair nicely with a sweater, cardigan, tee shirt or blouse. They also work well with flats, heels or even a cute pair of tennis shoes or sneakers. I use to shy away from these form fitting skirts, however I have found, they even go great with curves, smiles.

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Part 1
1. Start by measuring your waist and hips/ thighs (widest area). Make notation on these measurements, i.e., waist 34 inches widest hip area 44 inches.

2. Measure the distance from your waist downward to your largest hip area. Make notation of the measurement i.e., 9inches.

3. Measure the distance from your waist down to just below you knee, or the desire length, (hemline) of your skirt. Make notation on this measurement, i.e., 29 inches.

Part 2
1. Now make a pattern. It will be a ¼ of your skirt. You can use pattern paper or a quick easy grab, wrapping paper.  This is essential so you can make as many skirts as you would like in the future, additionally it can be used to make a new pattern if needed, i.e. to decrease or increase size, or lengthen or shorten.

2. Draw a rectangle with its longest side against the edge of the paper. The rectangle should be as long as measurement C of Part 1, this was the distance from your waist down to just below you knee, or the desire length, (hemline) of your skirt.

3. Next the rectangle should be as wide as your hip measurement divided by 4 plus 1inch for seam allowance. This was the hip measurement noted, A of Part 1(second measurement, hips) i.e., 44 inches. Formula 44 divided by 4, which would be 11+1=12 inches.

4. To shape your pattern, first redraft the top width of the skirt so that it is as wide as your waist measure divided by 4 plus 1in for seam allowance. This was the waist measurement noted, A of Part 1(first measurement, waist) i.e., 34 inches. Formula 34 divided by 4, which would be 8.5+1=9.5 inches.

5. From the waist you redrafted, use the measure from B of Part 1, this was the distance from your waist down to your widest hip area, and add 2in to the length, i.e., 9+2=11 inches. Mark this point on the long side of your rectangle.

6. Connect the new redrafted marking made at the waist to the new redrafted hip length; gently curve the line running from the waist mark to the hip mark. This will help give your skirt “curves” woot, woot!

7. To achieve the classic pencil skirt shape, the bottom of your skirt should curve in from the knees towards the bottom hemline. At bottom outer edge of the rectangle measure 2 inches inward. Starting from this point gently curve inwards up towards the new redrafted hip marking you created.

8. Finally add 1 inch to top and bottom of pattern for waist and hem line allowances. All done, now cut out your new pencil skirt pattern.

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Part 3
1. Before starting, ensure you are using your fabric correctly. A good way to determine this is to give your fabric a good tug from side to side and from top to bottom. Ensure you are utilizing the bias, the direction with the most stretch from side to side. This is the direction you want running across your hips and waist (as opposed to stretching downward from waist to hem). The best fabrics to use are 2-way, even better 4-way stretch knits, i.e., spandex, lycra, poly-knit blends. I will be utilizing a 2-way stretch fabric for the purpose of this tutorial.

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2. Fold the fabric in half, with stretch going from left to right (opposed to up and down). Place your pattern on the fold line, straight side of the pattern against the fold line (un curved side of pattern). Pin pattern in place with straight pins, cut around pattern, cut fabric out. You will have half your skirt, repeat step B to create the other side of your skirt.
3. Lay the two halves of the skirt together, right sides together. Match edges as best as possible, ten pin the sides together. Use fabric chalk to mark the top of the fabric, to decrease chances of confusing the top and bottom of the skirt throughout the sewing process.

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9983399_orig4. Sew down the sides using a half inch seam allowance, using a stretch or zig zag stitch; follow the curve of the skirt. You should have created a tube shape with your fabric that is slightly tapered at both two ends.
5. This is a good time to try on your skirt to check the fit. Fabrics have different amounts of stretch to them; therefore you may need to take the sides in a bit more if the fabric is very stretchy. Once happy with the fit, more on to the final step.
6. Now it’s time to create your waistline and hemline, for the experienced you may prefer to use your serger for the final step, which you don’t need my help for, your professionals, smiles! Fold down the waistline ½ an inch, then fold over that again (no raw edges should be showing), it should be doubled. Pin in place with straight pins, then sew down the hemline along the inner folded edge (the edge opposite to the top edge) with a zig zag stitch, you can use your double needle to give it more professional look. Please use your machines instructions for details how to install and thread the double needle. If you are “NEW” to this, I suggest utilizing the zig zag stitch. Repeat step F to create the hemline.

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7. Boom, Bang, You’re Done. Now what? WEAR YOUR LOVELY SKIRT, Yippy Dee!

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 I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and continue to create many lovely pencil skirts, enjoy & “Sew Happy”!

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